Dessert Critique

Rarely have I gotten a homework assignment that I've been excited to complete. Last week we were instructed to go to any restaurant we wanted, order dessert, and write up a quick critique. How is this homework again? I debated choosing something like Providence during my labor day vacation in Los Angeles, but eventually decided on LAMILL-mostly because who would suspect a boutique coffee shop serving up phenomenal dessert? That, I think, is something to write about. And I thought I would share my review here!


Pictured: Passionfruit Gelee / Lychee-shiso sorbet, coconut-soy milk soup, basil seeds. $9.
LAMILL coffee, situated in Silver Lake, one of Los Angeles’ most hip neighborhoods has been serving up top-notch coffee since it’s opening 2009. Recently rated by Bon Appetit as one of the top ten boutique coffee shops in the United States, they offer an impressive selection of beans and extraction methods sure to satisfy anyone who walks through its sleek doors . But LAMILL has more to offer its loyal customers than world class coffee. They developed their “anything-but-boring” menu in collaboration with Providence (one of LA’s best restaurants). The desserts for example, were conceived by Providence’s executive Pastry Chef Adrian Vasquez. And the pedigree certainly doesn’t go unnoticed. The desserts are most definitely not your average cafe fare, though their baked goods section is sure to rival almost any bakery in the greater Los Angeles area. And creativity is a good thing too, when customers are no longer impressed with playful flavors or textures; fennel ice cream? Rosewater foam? Been there, ate that. I personally rarely order dessert anymore, why pay for the same old chocolate flour-less cake? I, like many foodies of LA and NYC want to be amazed. LAMILL doesn’t disappoint. The dessert menu is simple, only a handful of options, which is good, because everything looks amazing. I went with the Passionfruit gelee- a perfect summer dessert paired with a glass of Kikusui Junmai Ginjo Sake (side note-they have an excellent sake/beer/wine list). I love this, normally reserved for only the top end restaurants, you forget your dining in a cafe. Though by no means is this an ordinary coffee joint, nothing has been overlooked, from the furniture (Louis Vuitton), to the wait staff-attentive and clad in high waisted black denim. They straddle the line of chic and gaudy marvelously, offering a unique atmosphere you won’t find elsewhere in LA (or New York). And aesthetics are important, not only in the wall paper, but the dessert too. We do, after all eat first with our eyes. I strongly believe presentation is almost equally as important as the taste. The passionfruit passes with ease, simple, with beautiful color contrast this dessert is both beautiful and inviting. The gelee, a vibrant orange color tastes like compact passionfruit-aggressive, showcasing it’s brilliant tart flavor. Topped with a lychee sorbet, which on its own is light, refreshing, and wonderfully flavored. In the context of the dessert it blends perfectly with the bold tartness of the passionfruit without loosing its distinct taste. The coconut milk soup, aside from providing a distinctive presentation as it is poured table-side adds a slight creamy-richness that is otherwise lacking in the dish. It provides a medium in which the individual flavors of the dish are able to combine seamlessly. Finally, the basil seeds and almonds add a necessary texture to the otherwise soft-creamy nature of the dessert. It is portioned wonderfully, the perfect amount that leaves you satisfied without feeling overly stuffed. The kicker? It will only cost you $9. Not bad at all, last I knew most restaurants were charging more for sorbet trios. If I had to have a complaint it would be location. Search as I may, I have yet to find a place like this in New York City. At least, I suppose it gives me something else to look forward to when visiting the Golden Coast.