Plating Techniques

First, today was much better. Though we're all skeptical, for now everything is running smoothly. We spent all day prepping dishes for plating. Unlike the other two levels, we aren't all doing the same thing, in fact, most people are each doing something different. I like this since its more realistic, and you can volunteer for items you're interested in. Of course, that means you may not learn something you may want to. Though, most are products we've produced before, and they do demo everything, so at least we get an idea of how to make it. Yesterday we were shown how they wanted us to plate, today, we were given the opportunity to plate however we wanted (pre-approved of course). I love plating! I think it's really important to have a strong visual presentation. The class was divided up into "kitchens" to produce four different plates, we all worked on the core item, then split up to make individual components.

Mendiant (mousse semi-freddo) with Sour Cherry Compote, Chocolate Sauce, and Crumbled Tuille.
This is the dessert my kitchen worked on. I didn't love the plating, but since I wasn't in charge of that aspect I didn't really have much of a choice. I was responsible for the compote. For anyone I've made desserts for, you would know, I generally think everything tastes too sweet. I followed the recipe given and thought, of course, that it was far too sweet. So, I decided to add limoncello to accent the tart flavor of the cherries. I loved it, and during the critique a few students said it was "amazing" and their favorite part of the dish! Obviously, I was really happy with the result!

Tiramisu with Hazelnut and Orange Sable. What I loved about this dessert platting was the choice to use brush technique. You literally paint sauce on the plate. I think its a brilliant way to add a visual element while keeping the sauce minimal. The chef on the other hand made sure to let us know, he really doesn't like brush technique, then again, he doesn't really like anything "new" when it comes to platting or desserts in general.

Panna Cotta with Tropical Fruit and Pineapple Granita
The highlight of this dish was the the granita, it was like concentrated pineapple ice. amazing. The panna cotta has a fair amount of gelatin in it to hold the shape, and I prefer looser panna cottas with less (or no) additives. Though I imagine a different stabilizer could be used, one that doesn't impart an off after taste.

Mille-Feuille with Fromage Blanc Mousse, Port Poached Pears and Pear Sorbet.
This was my favorite dessert, aside from the mousse, I'm all for using savory approaches to desserts, but the cheese flavor in this was a bit much. But I really liked the lightness of the phyllo crescents against the richness of the port pears, sorbet and reduction. I also really like the monochromatic nature of the plating design, you don't always need a variety of color to create a beautiful plate!

Tomorrow is Sabayon day! I'm quite excited, I've made it before, but I'm interested to see how much different it tastes now that I have experience!

Zac Young Visits FCI

For anyone who has been watching Top Chef just desserts, you'll recognize who Zac Young is. Most of us went to the demo after class because we were curious how he was in real life, given the show suggested he's slightly insane. We were pleasantly surprised when not only were his desserts fantastic (and informative!), but he was also absolutely hilarious and highly entertaining. I generally don't care much for traditional American desserts, but his take was fantastic, utilizing savory elements and introducing interesting alterations to update old classics. It was easily the best demo I've been to! And it was much needed after another stressful day. After a hell-ish morning (worse than yesterday) as students were ready to stage a walk out we brought up chef Jergen to hear our concerns. He then talked to Chef Tom, and as a result the afternoon was very pleasant. Though, we're all skeptical, waiting to see how long it lasts!


Frozen Key Lime Pie

Chocolate Mousse

Fried Bread Pudding with Caramel Bourbon Apples

And-the desserts we plated today

Chocolate Mint Parfait

White Chocolate Parfait

A Debated Post

I debated greatly about posting this, for a variety of reasons. First, I don't want to suggest that I don't enjoy my program or think its worthwhile, because I really do, and it really is. I also don't want to mis-represent FCI, which in general is an incredible school with first rate instructors. But I also realized that this blog is supposed to represent my experience-the good as well as the bad. It
Today was not one of the best I've had. In fact, I would say the worst. Not because I was stressed, or products weren't working. The atmosphere in the class today was thick with anxiety, all due to our chef. Since Chef Jergens promotion we've had our old chef from level one instructing (Chef Tom) with our level 2 assisting (Chef. Chris). No one was looking forward to this. Not only were we sad to see Chef Jergen go, since he truly is a phenomenal teacher, but also because we aren't particularly fond of Chef Tom. We were hoping for the best however, but none of us could have seen what happened today coming. The day began fine enough, there was a little tension between the chefs (rumor has it they aren't exactly best friends), and it was a little slow, but not awful. After lunch three recipes were to be demoed before we made them (mousses). Everything was going wrong for them, mis communication resulting in one mistake after another. The three demos were supposed to take 20 minutes, after thirty, the first one had just been completed. Chef Tom clearly frustrated with how things were going, and the class quickly loosing ability to pay attention he just stopped. He was so frustrated with the demo not working, and Chef. Chris' attempts to help. He just declared we were wasting time and ought to just go ahead and try it ourselves. They then went into the hallway where Chef. Tom proceeded to yell at Chef. Chris (we could only see, not hear), presumably about what had just happened. Between that and the dirty looks he had shot him during the demo-we were all on edge. We've seen Chef. Tom irritated, and that was bad enough. I can't begin to describe the feeling of the class, we were all anxious, and some were ready to walk out (this wasn't what we signed up for). When they returned Chef. Chris seemed near tears, and all of us had began running around the kitchen working attempting as best we could to stay under the radar. We barely finished in time, with him breathing down our necks telling us to hurry it up (remember, we've never done this before). Finally, we finished, and cleaned up. I felt sick the whole time, feeding off the anxiety of others, and personal fear of being singled out. I was exhausted and near breaking down. I think we are were.
I left class today feeling terrible, aside from exhausted, physically and emotionally. I could have cried at any moment. II'm fine now, but it took a few hours, and a lot of re-assuring myself. I really do try to make the best of these situations that occasionally arise, having my own interest in mind its most beneficial for me to get over it and get out what I can. During class I tried to focus on the product I was making, being meticulous, and it paid off! My mousse was perfect, and I was really proud of it. I think back to my college years, with less than stellar professors. I remember advice I got (much from my Dad), about not letting it take your energy, focusing on personal growth. I've dealt with these types before, and it most certainly won't be the last. And every time I do, I feel better and better about adapting and not letting it hurt me. I recognize that if I focus on what I'm trying to achieve (learning techniques) I will learn them. Granted with a good instructor, it's easy. You want to learn, and they are there to support you. But in this case we are force to look for intrinsic motivation, to achieve what you want, regardless. I know I must love what I'm doing, because even though it was absolutely awful, it isn't fazing me too badly, and I feel just as determined to learn. I'm hoping of course, that this won't become a trend. Because despite how hard I try, it is incredibly draining.
We were also given a homework assignment related to our own menu projects. Write a dessert menu for our school's restaurant (L'Ecole). We spent 30 minutes discussing riveting things such as "what does a menu tell you?" It all feels elementary, and I wish we could just do our own, without all this obnoxious hand-holding. At first, I was annoyed at the homework-I don't want to make a menu for a French restaurant, then spend time tomorrow in groups discussing and coming up with combined menus (mostly because in general, my class is super traditional-which to me equates to boring.I doubt my opinion will be considered). But then I realized often in my career I'll have to compromise, and this is just an example. Here's what I came up with!


Chocolate, Caramel, Walnut Tart
black-pepper lemon curd, fleur de sel, earl grey ice-cream

Thyme and Bourbon Vanilla Creme Brulee
meyer lemon Confit, Micro Basil.

Green Tea Genoise
matcha strawberry salad, matcha creme chantilly

Chocolate Mousse
85% valrhona chocolate, black-sesame ginger ice-cream, kumquat puree

Hazelnut Souffle
roasted pear, chamomile sorbet

Chartruese and Fig Granite
Marsala sabayon, cinnamon sable

Liquid Chocolate Beignets
Hybiscus syrup, cardamon ice-cream


Fried Frangipane
Strawberry compote, aged balsamic reduction, basil gelee
(adapted from Providence’s “sweeter side of panzanella”)

Last, a complete side note, here's the link to the article Oprah did on Liddabit!!
http://www.oprah.com/food/Halloween-Recipes-How-to-Make-Candy/1
At least, I absolutely love my job.

Simplicity is the Key to Happiness in Pastry School.

It was showpiece time once again, and after three previous anxious ridden projects I was determined to make this one less of a headache. The theme chosen was "Favorite Children's Movie." While I wasn't thrilled with the theme, it was open enough that I wasn't too concerned. In the past my seemingly simple designs always proved significantly harder than I could anticipate. This resulted in many last second alterations and a fair amount of panic. This time, I took my initial idea and simplified it as much as I possibly could while still fulfilling the requirements, which included a weight! And it worked! I was able to relax and take my time. It was an easy day for me, and while I know I could have tackled a more technical project the sanity I achieved was well worth it! Plus, I got a great grade, one I probably wouldn't have gotten if my piece had been more advanced. I have to admit, however much I enjoy chocolate work, I'm glad the section is over and I'm really happy with everything I've learned. I feel like I can make anything chocolate related!

The Brave Little Toaster (Thank you to Alex for the idea!)

And a few more confections to finish out the section:

Peppermint Patties

Cherry Cordials

Now we start plated desserts 2 (of 3). The desserts themselves aren't that interesting (the more advanced ones in a few weeks). But, we get to start our menu projects!!! If you didn't already know, I'm absolutely thrilled with this project! Not only do I get to design my own business and dessert menu to execute, but its a bit of a dry run for a business plan I have in mind for "real life." I mean, how many times in my life am I going to make a showpiece out of chocolate? Probably, not that often, if ever. But creating original desserts and opening my own restaurant? Those are legitimate possibilities! Ones I truly hope I'll be able to accomplish in my career.

Improvements!

Day 5 of advanced chocolates. We started out making a butter caramel, which was surprisingly more difficult than anticipated! After making a dry caramel (adding sugar to a hot pan without water) and whisking in butter/honey. In order to keep the emulsion, you essentially have to whisk an absurd amount while keeping the caramel hot (but not boiling!) I actually have little blisters! But it ended up working on the first go!

Butter caramel

Mendiants
Since we had some extra time...super easy, tempered chocolate with fruit/nuts.

Rocky Road

A while back I made marshmallows in Pasadena. I had a bit of a hard time working with the meringue/sugar. So I was admittedly a bit concerned when the rock roads required we make them. But it ended up being pretty basic! No problem at all. I know I've improved but I love actually seeing the difference! Things that used to be challenging are now easy, and items I've never thought I could do (bon-bons for example) I've been able to achieve with great success! Of course, the ultimate test will be the wedding cake, what I've been dreading the entire program! It's coming up soon...

Whiskey and Spice

My Manhattan bon-bons turned out great! Granted I had to triple the whiskey in my ganach to get the flavor I wanted, but in the end I was really happy with it! I'm also glad I choose a relatively simple procedure, many people in class tried to do "inventive flavors" or combinations that ended up either not working because the flavor was off or it was too complicated to execute. Bon bons are hard enough without trying to complicate the filling. Some people needed to roast things (sweet potatoes) or make creme anglaises that never set up, broke, or burnt. One of the problems in a highly competitive class is people's need to out do one another. In doing so it seems that crucial aspects of baking are overlooked. There's nothing wrong with doing classic flavor combinations-but doing them extremely well. The end product is always better than some crazy flavor that tastes a bit off. Of course, if you can combine the two thats great, but often you can see the attempt, but it rarely works. Many of my favorite restaurants don't have exceptionally "inventive" menus (Blue Hill for instance), but everything is done to perfection. The ingredients are fresh, with simple combinations that produce incredible results. Not to say I'm not guilty of this too occasionally, but it's a trend I've been noticing in out class as we approach graduation.


On a completely unrelated note, A gourmet market near me got an order of hatch chilis in this week! Hard to find, and previously impossible in New York, I thought I would take advantage! So I bought a few and made a chili! I opted for the extra hot variety, and thinking I have this phenomenal tolerance to spice added a little extra. It is one of the hottest things I've ever made or eaten in general. But, it is amazing! Unlike poblanos, which I don't actually like all that much on their own, these have a great flavor. Too bad they're only in stock for such a short amount of time!

Roasting the peppers

Chili!

Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate.

Assorted Bon-Bons (above)

Yesterday and today we spent all day tempering, molding, and dipping. Chocolate is everywhere. I have some on my hat, not sure how this is possible! Needless to say, I'm in pastry heaven. Though technically quite difficult, I'm loving every second! And today was bon-bon day!!! Carla and I picked Honey/Saffron ganach to fill ours-we had a list to choose from. Really good! And on Monday our assignment is to create our own recipe! I'm of course doing a Manhattan truffle-Whiskey/Brandied Cherries/Dark Chocolate. Super simple-but I imagine the flavors will be fantastic!

Chocolate Covered Peanut Butter Nougat (not the white variety-tastes like a resses-pieces with some texture)

Chocolate Covered Soft Caramels

Butter Caramels and Peanuts, dipped.

We also got our chocolate showpiece (yes, another one) theme today: favorite childhood movie. Our class is not particularly creative in terms of interesting themes...So I get to plan that out this weekend!

So, this is how its supposed to be.

Level 3.
The beginning of an end. We have the pleasure of Chef. Jurgen teaching the chocolate section. I am constantly impressed by good instructors, and I've had a few in my years of academia. Though rare, when you get one, you know how lucky you are. It's hard to pin-point exactly what it is that makes him so great at what he does. But for starters, it is quite clear he loves being here with us. His love for teaching makes us instantly respect him. Not only is he exceptionally talented, he has an ease that removes any hint of anxiety you may have. No easy feat when working with chocolate. You want to do well, but not only that, you hang on every word he says. You want to learn from him, you want to impress him. He instills that ever elusive ambition for success (as opposed to the more common, fear of failure). Even our class, known to be distracted and talkative, was silent and attentive. I don't know why I was so nervous before, aside from moving to the final level, his talent is admittedly intimidating. But, there's no need to worry. He is very nice, and truly cares about our success. But, lest you might think he's forgiving, he isn't. He expects as much perfection as we could ever hope to attain. I absolutely loved today. I feel the same excitement as I did the first day I walked into this school. While I am a bit sad he is only here for a short time, I'm so happy to have gotten him at all, and in the one section I'm most excited about!
It doesn't hurt that I have a phenomenal partner. Carla and I have worked together before in level 2. We work exceptionally well together, and are at the same level skill wise. A girl in our class told me in the locker room after class that we ought to not be allowed to work together since we mesh so well and both work fast and efficiently that we're making the rest of the class "look bad." While most other groups struggled throughout the day, having to remake things up to three times, we breezed through everything. We were the only ones to finish by the deadline. I absolutely love working with her. Even in terms of our menu projects, we have very similar ideas and ambitions. Most (probably around %80) of the class are thinking of traditional ideas, but both of us want to push the standards a bit. We both geek out at technology (sous-vide, spherification, carbonation? we love it all). She has great ideas, and has the very fortunate experience of working for famed Johnny Luzzini, playing off things she's learned from him, she's a great source to bounce ideas off of. We discussed the new wave in pastries-aside from coming to the forefront of the industry as a legitimate profession-we agree-the next big thing in avant garde pastries is more savory, playing with herbs to be specific, something Johnny is starting to do more at Jean George. It's so exciting to be in the industry right now! And I truly believe I can make my mark.
I was watching Top Chef Just Desserts (so excited!!!) and thinking, I could do this. I would probably need a few years to learn more, but based on the pilot, I could compete. Of that, I have no doubt. I certainly have the passion and raw talent. I think I have what it takes do extraordinary things in this industry, a realization that is still hard to grasp. If you know me, you know I rarely believe anything I do is all that good, constantly comparing myself to the best, and always falling short in my mind. But I no longer feel that way, and while I hate to exaggerate my talent or give myself false hope, everything points to the idea that just maybe I am exceptional in some way. I can't wait to begin my career, who knows where it will take me! If I can manage to rise to the top of a very talented class, with no experience, I really want to see what I can do after a few years. There is so much to learn, and so many ways to improve-and I absolutely cannot wait to learn anything and everything I can.

The End of Level 2.

It's the end of level 2!!! And here's my cake stand, made of sugar:


Sort of anti-climatic way of ending the unit, but exciting none the less! And we get to have Chef. Jergen for the first two weeks of level 3! Which is great, since it's advanced chocolate, one of the sections I care most about.

On an unrelated note, we went to a demo for the executive pastry chef from Aureole Las Vegas, and she was doing chocolate. It was fine, and though she had been working in the industry for a couple of decades, she had no formal training and was originally a savory chef. Not to say you need formal training (obviously, since several phenomenal chefs didn't). But there was a difference, and her chocolate technique was actually not that great. She has a cookbook and a line of chocolates. All of which are good. But, not great. And while watching the demo/tasting I had a bit of a realization. I didn't know how well we were being trained, or how talented we've become. What I can produce now (what most of us can) is well above industry standards. Like ganache I made a few weeks ago thatI think was on par to many top chocolatiers in New York City. It's hard for me to admit I'm good at anything, so to think just maybe I'm actually quite talented is a stretch. But its sinking in a bit, and I'm starting to believe the instructors when they say we are being "groomed to be the best in the industry." Perhaps there is a reason the vast majority of celebrity chefs who have had formal training are FCI alums. It is exciting! I know I don't need to be Jaques Torres to make it in the industry, but now I'm starting to really believe, this is something I can do, and quite well at that.

Sugar Paste Flowers

All weekend we've been dreading the upcoming class with famed Ron Ben Israel. Not because it involved more sugar work, though for me, that was part of it. But mostly because (master, let us not forget) Chef. Israel is known to be...a bit of an ass. Yesterday was day 1 of 2, and it was pretty awful to be honest. He was so demanding and unpleasant, pointing out people's mistakes to the class and if you dared not to be at his beck and call he would stop class to let you know just how rude you were being. Granted, he had our undivided attention, but mostly resulting from fear. I know, I know, he's famous, wedding cake designer to celebrities. The problem is, he knows he how talented he is. He even ended the class showing a video that showcased, shockingly, how awesome he is. Even laughing at his own jokes. Needless to say, when I woke up this morning I wasn't particularly thrilled at the prospect of another session.
But today was different. It was actually even sort of fun. While I admit I don't particularly care about sugar flowers or wedding cakes for that matter, they are pretty awesome, and I am pretty proud of mine! And while I doubt I'll use the technique often (or ever), I am glad I know how to do it, especially for you know, all those wedding cakes I'll be making in the future.
But the most important thing is tomorrow is our last day in level 2!!! Onto level 3 Thursday!

Another Project

Yet, another project. Now we are designing cake stands using pastillage (same idea as fondant-but a bit more structurally sound when dried). I have to admit, I'm a bit uninspired. Its sticky to make, and containing vinegar, I seriously doubt anyone would want to consume it. Meh, a bit over showpieces. But thats OK, because at the end of this unit-on Thursday of next week, we move up to level 3!! When did this happen? I can't believe level 2 is over, I feel like we just started! Though I'm a bit nervous because there's a shift in instructors happening and the usual chef won't be teaching (he's getting promoted to dean! as the rumors go). A bit disappointing because he's supposed to be an excellent instructor, and truly great at what he does-even if he's a bit intimidating! Hopefully, we'll get someone good!
All of a sudden I realize I'm near the end of my program-and while that excites me to no end, it also scares me. As I continue my education here I'm confronted with a scenario I'm not used to. My choice to pursue higher education (aka a masters) may or may not be of any use to me. Talking to advisors, the only reason to go to grad school (and spend all that money) is if I'm interested in research, every other aspect of the field I would be better off just getting an internship (and saving that $40K). I am interested in research, quite interested, but I don't know if thats what I want to do. I know ultimately I want to open my own bakery/provision store-front. I have a basic business plan that feels realistic, so the question is, when do I plan on doing this? And am I OK with the prospect that I won't get a masters degree. To be honest, I sort of want the degree just to further my education-it certainly can't hurt. I love so many aspects of this industry, I can't seem to pin down exactly what I want to do. So either-school, or intern a variety of places to decide whats best. I think this is the first time I've ever had to really take risks. I'm used to the sciences! Go to school, get a job! It's just that easy-well, not really. There is that whole dedicating the better part of your 20's to education. But with the freedom I've been given by my new profession comes a whole slew of uncertainties. And for the first time in my life I find myself at a loss for what I should do!
I started thinking about why I'm here in the first place-in hopes that that would provide some sort of enlightenment. I was just reading an article in Gastronomica about food as related to existence-philosophy of food essentially. While I generally consider myself well educated and well read, I struggled to grasp many nuances in this dense article. But, the overall message was a contradiction to Plato's idea that hunger and food are in no way useful to enlightenment, in fact, it's a hinderance. Philosophers featured in the article suggested the opposite. That food is existence, it is what connects us to the world and one-another, in a way that nothing else does. It has always been difficult to articulate why I love baking. Yes, it's science-oriented. But thats what makes me good at it, not why I have a passion for it. And I think it comes down to personal connections. When I wanted to be a doctor, a primary reason was that I wanted to have a profound positive effect on someone's life. I wanted to connect to others-in my own way. Medicine is the easy answer, what better way to influence one's life than to save it? While I know now that medicine wasn't right for me, the same drive exists. To feed other people, is to connect to them on a very basic human level. And to provide a medium for people to form memories, or connect with one another is a subtle way of influencing a multitude of people. It may seem cliche, and while I can't put to words exactly how I feel, I know I never feel as "present" as I do when I'm cooking a meal or baking for a loved one. This is why I bake. Now, to decide the next step.

Dessert Critique

Rarely have I gotten a homework assignment that I've been excited to complete. Last week we were instructed to go to any restaurant we wanted, order dessert, and write up a quick critique. How is this homework again? I debated choosing something like Providence during my labor day vacation in Los Angeles, but eventually decided on LAMILL-mostly because who would suspect a boutique coffee shop serving up phenomenal dessert? That, I think, is something to write about. And I thought I would share my review here!


Pictured: Passionfruit Gelee / Lychee-shiso sorbet, coconut-soy milk soup, basil seeds. $9.
LAMILL coffee, situated in Silver Lake, one of Los Angeles’ most hip neighborhoods has been serving up top-notch coffee since it’s opening 2009. Recently rated by Bon Appetit as one of the top ten boutique coffee shops in the United States, they offer an impressive selection of beans and extraction methods sure to satisfy anyone who walks through its sleek doors . But LAMILL has more to offer its loyal customers than world class coffee. They developed their “anything-but-boring” menu in collaboration with Providence (one of LA’s best restaurants). The desserts for example, were conceived by Providence’s executive Pastry Chef Adrian Vasquez. And the pedigree certainly doesn’t go unnoticed. The desserts are most definitely not your average cafe fare, though their baked goods section is sure to rival almost any bakery in the greater Los Angeles area. And creativity is a good thing too, when customers are no longer impressed with playful flavors or textures; fennel ice cream? Rosewater foam? Been there, ate that. I personally rarely order dessert anymore, why pay for the same old chocolate flour-less cake? I, like many foodies of LA and NYC want to be amazed. LAMILL doesn’t disappoint. The dessert menu is simple, only a handful of options, which is good, because everything looks amazing. I went with the Passionfruit gelee- a perfect summer dessert paired with a glass of Kikusui Junmai Ginjo Sake (side note-they have an excellent sake/beer/wine list). I love this, normally reserved for only the top end restaurants, you forget your dining in a cafe. Though by no means is this an ordinary coffee joint, nothing has been overlooked, from the furniture (Louis Vuitton), to the wait staff-attentive and clad in high waisted black denim. They straddle the line of chic and gaudy marvelously, offering a unique atmosphere you won’t find elsewhere in LA (or New York). And aesthetics are important, not only in the wall paper, but the dessert too. We do, after all eat first with our eyes. I strongly believe presentation is almost equally as important as the taste. The passionfruit passes with ease, simple, with beautiful color contrast this dessert is both beautiful and inviting. The gelee, a vibrant orange color tastes like compact passionfruit-aggressive, showcasing it’s brilliant tart flavor. Topped with a lychee sorbet, which on its own is light, refreshing, and wonderfully flavored. In the context of the dessert it blends perfectly with the bold tartness of the passionfruit without loosing its distinct taste. The coconut milk soup, aside from providing a distinctive presentation as it is poured table-side adds a slight creamy-richness that is otherwise lacking in the dish. It provides a medium in which the individual flavors of the dish are able to combine seamlessly. Finally, the basil seeds and almonds add a necessary texture to the otherwise soft-creamy nature of the dessert. It is portioned wonderfully, the perfect amount that leaves you satisfied without feeling overly stuffed. The kicker? It will only cost you $9. Not bad at all, last I knew most restaurants were charging more for sorbet trios. If I had to have a complaint it would be location. Search as I may, I have yet to find a place like this in New York City. At least, I suppose it gives me something else to look forward to when visiting the Golden Coast.